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Visit Kinosaki Onsen 城崎温泉 the hot spring town
When I first stepped into Kinosaki Onsen, a small town tucked away in northern Hyogo Prefecture, I felt like I’d been transported into another era. With its willow-lined canals, wooden bridges, and locals strolling around in yukata (casual kimono), this little town of just over 3,000 residents feels more like a living postcard than a travel destination.
But Kinosaki is most famous for something else: its seven public hot spring bathhouses. What makes it especially unique is that it’s one of the few places in Japan that’s tattoo-friendly, making it an inviting spot for both local and international travellers.
Staying at My First Ryokan: Morizuya 森津屋
For this trip, I booked my very first stay at a traditional ryokan: Morizuya. From the moment I walked in, the family who runs the inn greeted me with warm smiles and genuine hospitality. My stay included a half-board plan, which meant I was treated to both dinner and breakfast—lavish multi-course meals showcasing the region’s finest produce.
One highlight was the tea ceremony offered at the inn. Sitting quietly, sipping matcha in a tatami room, I felt both humbled and at peace—an experience I won’t soon forget.
Yukata and a kimono are provided free for visitors staying at the inn.
Morizuya 森津屋
417 Kinosakicho Yushima, Toyooka, Hyogo 669-6101, Japan•+81 796-32-2106
The Food at Morizuya 森津屋
Dinner was an absolute feast. The highlight? Matsuba crab, a local winter delicacy, was served alongside sashimi, tempura, hot pot, and seasonal side dishes that were as beautiful as they were delicious. Each course was presented with incredible attention to detail—an art form in itself.
Breakfast was equally delightful: a traditional Japanese spread with grilled fish, miso soup, rice, pickles, and tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette). It was hearty, balanced, and the perfect fuel before heading out to explore the baths.
If you’re a foodie, Kinosaki is a treat in itself. Crab season runs from November to March, so that’s the best time to visit if you want the full culinary experience.
The Onsen-Hopping Experience
Kinosaki’s charm lies in its onsen-hopping culture. Staying at a ryokan gives you a pass to all seven bathhouses in town, and wandering from one to another in a yukata and wooden geta sandals is part of the fun. Each onsen has its personality—some with open-air baths, some tucked into caves, others with beautiful indoor pools.
Tip: At any given time, one bathhouse will be closed for cleaning, so it’s good to check the daily schedule before you head out.
If you’d rather dip your toes in before going all in, there’s also a free foot bath outside, perfect for a short rest between strolls.
The Kinosaki Must-Visits Pass
Besides the onsen-hopping pass included with your ryokan stay, Kinosaki also offers the “Kinosaki Must-Visits Pass.” This gives you access to attractions beyond the baths, such as:
- Ropeway to Mount Daishi – for sweeping views of the town and coastline.
- Onsenji Temple – a historic temple where visitors once had to pray before being allowed to bathe in the hot springs.
- Genbudo Caves – a fascinating geological site just outside town.
The pass makes exploring easier (and cheaper) if you plan to do more than just soak in the baths.
Things to Do in 城崎温泉 Town
While onsen-hopping is the main attraction, Kinosaki 城崎温泉 has plenty more to enjoy:
- Stroll the Canal Streets: The willow-lined river and arched bridges are especially magical at night when lanterns light up the town.
- Shop for Local Souvenirs: Small shops sell everything from yukata accessories to crab-themed snacks.
- Try Local Sweets: Don’t miss Kinosaki’s speciality desserts, like onsen manju (steamed buns filled with red bean paste).
- Visit Izushi Castle Town (Day Trip): Just a short bus ride away, this historic town is known as the “Little Kyoto of Tajima” and is famous for its Izushi soba noodles.
Incense shop やまとごころ城崎
Japan, 〒669-6101 Hyogo, Toyooka, Kinosakicho Yushima, 431 やまとごころ城崎
Onsen Etiquette: What You Need to Know
Before you head into the baths, there are some important customs to follow:
- Undress fully (no swimsuits allowed).
- Wash your entire body before soaking.
- No phones or cameras inside the onsen.
- After bathing, it’s common to rinse your body lightly and then relax.
- Many locals like to finish the experience with a cold bottle of milk from the vending machine—give it a try!
For women, it’s generally not recommended to bathe in an onsen during menstruation.
Getting There
Despite its quiet, small-town feel, Kinosaki is very accessible. A limited express train runs directly from both Kyoto and Osaka, making it an easy getaway from the Kansai region.
Once you arrive, you’ll find that the town is completely walkable, but if you’re staying at a ryokan, there’s also a free shuttle bus to help with luggage and check-in.
Final Thoughts
Kinosaki Onsen is more than just a hot spring town—it’s a place where tradition, hospitality, and relaxation come together most beautifully. For me, staying at Morizuya and wandering between the bathhouses in a yukata was an experience that felt both deeply cultural and incredibly personal.
If you’re looking for a destination in Japan that blends history, wellness, food, and charm (with the rare bonus of being tattoo-friendly), Kinosaki Onsen should be on your Japan travel list.
For more information the kinosaki onsen website.
